The View from the Met and One Last Thing about Japan...

Photo by myself from the rooftop of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, on the Upper East Side.

The view from the rooftop of the Metropolitan Museum of Art is a scenic one.

This is a popular place to take a date. There is a bar and sculpture garden. From here, you can watch the sunset and lights of the city come on.

-- I know, I know. Why am I mentioning Japan again?

I didn't think I had more to say after returning from our 12-day trip. But tonight, while very jet-lagged, my fiance Mark switched on a documentary that was highly recommended to him, called Jiro Dreams of Sushi.

The movie is divine. It tells of an 85-year old sushi chef, Jiro Ono, whose restaurant was awarded three Michelin stars, and his relentless, daily devotion to his craft.

Jiro left home at the age of seven. His two sons are also sushi chefs, working alongside their father.

The movie is beautifully shot. Anyone who appreciates color photography will appreciate this film. At the beginning of the movie, Mark said 'Oh, I wish we'd seen this earlier...we could have gone to the restaurant.'

Um...no. The tasting menu costs 30,000 yen per person, or about $375 USD (!!!). The movie was filmed in 2011 and opened in New York in March, 2012.

Here's the trailer:

 

For the Times review of this movie, click here.

Related posts: From the Rooftop of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, On Japanese Food and Fish, and Serving Up Sushi, at 15 East 15th.

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The Look, in Shibuya, Japan

Photo by myself in Shibuya, Japan.

One last look, or series of looks from Shibuya, a very busy part of Tokyo.

It was rush hour Friday, and tons of commuters were streaming by. The sun was setting, bathing everyone's heads in a warm glow. Some people noticed me and gave me looks. Others were completely oblivious.

Just behind me was a huge intersection where five streets come together. It's perhaps the busiest intersection on the planet.

We are returning to New York today. This weekend is Labor Day weekend in the States. Most businesses are closed on Monday!

Happy weekend, everyone!
 









Related posts: The Look, Outside the Flatiron Building, The Look, on Greene Street, in Soho, and The Look, Outside the Dakota.

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A Glimpse of Old Japan, in Kyoto

Photo by myself, in Kyoto, Japan.

A young woman dressed as a geisha walked down one of the picturesque streets in Kyoto, Japan.

Some of the streets in Kyoto are lined with traditional bars and tea houses, where geishas and geisha apprentices entertain visitors.

Kyoto is a very large city, located a couple hours outside Tokyo. Just a few streets away from the above photo were high end, modern shopping malls and streets teeming with people and taxis.

We had a lovely time walking about this city, if only for a couple days. It's been a long trip, though, and we'll be happy to return home.

One of the narrow historic streets at night. Lanterns are hung outside eateries and bars, inviting visitors inside.

Shrines and temples are scattered throughout the city. The above shrine was precious.

Two geishas conversed. Parasols provide protection against the bright summer sun.

Related posts: Greetings from Tokyo, Highlights from Japan, Part One, and Highlights from Japan, Part Two.

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A Farewell to Fukuoka, Japan and Ichiran Ramen

Photo by myself in Fukuoka, Japan.

A night view at one of the many yatai along the canals in Fukuoka, Japan.

Fukuoka is a canal city and is much smaller in scale than Tokyo. 'Yatai' are the street carts parked along the main canals in Fukuoka, at night. They serve up satay, ramen and beer. During the day, the cooks rest and the yatai are packed up and parked away.

My fiance Mark and I are leaving Fukuoka on Wednesday, traveling to Kyoto, a historic city about 3 hours away. This was our second visit to Fukuoka and I am absolutely saddened to leave.

There is a vibrant street culture here that is precious. People are friendly and very polite when approached (in general, the Japanese keep to themselves). We have enjoyed walking about and getting to know this city.

Bright lights and lanterns make each yatai dinner festive. The canal is to the right, out of frame.

One of the vendors pulls his cart to a parking space. It is hot and humid, day and night. The canal is visible to the left.

One of our favorite discoveries has been Ichiran noodles. Ichiran is a chain of restaurants throughout Japan.

Eating Ichiran noodles means sitting at a bar with blinders to either side, so you are focused on your food experience. The main attraction is tonkatsu ramen, a traditional ramen in a broth made from stewing pork bones for hours.

You order your food via vending machine, as with many Japanese restaurants. Then you customize your order with a checklist - firm noodles or soft, with hot sauce or without, with pork meat or not.

Then you place your order by pressing a button. A waiter/waitress rolls up the screen and takes your order. You can only see a bit of their torso. After a few minutes, presto, your ramen is delivered in a clay pot, and the screen is rolled down.

A photo from my Ichiran booth. I can see into the alley where the waiters work, through to the booth opposite me. The call button is ahead of me, my customized checklist is to the right.


A photo of my Ichiran booth. Each booth has its own water dispenser, glasses, soup ladles and wall of instructions.

Your noodle soup comes in a clay container with a lid. Condiments such as scallions, hot sauce, pork and garlic are custom-calibrated. Absolutely delicious. This was lunch. Dinner looked very similar!

Each ramen costs about $10 US. You can add full or half-servings of noodles to your broth as well. I was so in love with this place, I went once for lunch and again for dinner!!!

Mark and I are delighted to learn that there will be an Ichiran opening in New York, though we're not sure when. I'm also doubtful how well these booths will hold up in New York, where younger kids tend to litter everything with graffiti.

For more about Ichiran, see their website (in English) here.

I am away in Japan through the rest of August! Posts will continue here, as usual.
Related posts: On Night Life in Fukuoka, Japan, A Trip to the Countryside, in Yufuin, Japan, and Highlights from Japan, Part One.

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Cats for Hire at the Neko Cafe Keurig, in Fukuoka, Japan

Photo by myself at the Neko Cafe Keurig in Fukuoka, Japan.

One of 30 cats at the Neko Cafe Keurig paid me no mind, Sunday afternoon. In the background is the petting room and cafe entrance.

I stumbled upon a unique cafe in the Daimyo shopping district of Fukuoka, Sunday. 'Neko' means 'cat' in Japanese. In Japan, for those who love cats but cannot own one, the solution is to visit a neko cafe and spend time with cats (!).

There were cats on high perches, and cats walking across gangplanks, and cats walking about with customers. Six cats slept on top of each other in the corner of the front window (!). Meanwhile, small kittens slept in cages.

I met the cafe owner, Kayano Nomura. She is a sweet lady who rescues cats from the streets and finds homes for them. Nomura has saved some 200 cats already (!). She made me feel right at home.

One customer held court with cat treats. Several hungry creatures clamored for her attention.

Adorable kittens rescued from the streets sat and slept in cages. The kitten looking at the camera and I had a nice play session.

The storefront of the cafe says it all.

A session of 30 minutes is 280 yen, or $3.50 US. Cooling drinks and snacks are served as well. I had a lovely time and will visit again on my next trip.

For more about the Neko Cafe Keurig and Nomura, including some great photos, click here.
For the Neko Cafe Keurig website, which links to their blog ('Today's Cat Cafe', both in Japanese) click here.

I am away in Japan through the rest of August! Posts will continue here, as usual.
Related posts: The Woman with a Cat on her Back, Cat on a Leash, in Midtown, and Beware of Cat, in the East Village.

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A Day Excursion to Nara, Japan

Photo by myself in Nara, Japan.

Several deer mingle with visitors in Nara. Above, one of the gorgeous historic wooden structures in the park.

Nara was once the capital of Japan, back between 710 to 784, when it was called Heijokyo. The city is located 4 hours from Fukuoka, where we are staying. It is 1 hour away from Kyoto, another historic city we will visit later, and it is 3.5 hours from Tokyo.

I visited Nara on Friday, as much to see the historic temples as the deer, which are not afraid of humans. It was a bright and super-hot day. The walk from the train station to Nara Park was a short one, lined with stores and eateries. Deer were scattered about and hawkers were selling bread to feed them for 150 yen (about $2 US).

One of the first things I did was buy some bread to feed the deer. I immediately found myself swarmed by male bucks. The pushiest one kept poking me with his antlers. At one point I had my back turned and got some serious pokes from behind. All I can say is, OUCH!!

I love animals, but after a short while I decided the deer were stomachs on legs. The females and younger males were much less pushy.

My nemesis. Note the very, very pointy antler ends and evil gleam in his eye. This fellow probably stays up at night sharpening his antlers with glee.

As for the temples, they are certainly a must-see. Some seemed much larger than the ones I saw in Beijing earlier this year, with swooping roofs and deep overhangs. The gate near the Todaiji Temple was very tall, with soaring timber supports inside. You could see all the joinery, which was incredible.

The Kohfukuji Temple was reconstructed in 1426, after burning down five times.

Outside the Todaiji Temple, which houses a huge wooden buddha. The Temple is the largest wooden structure in the world.
A sign warning of the deer. I am the figure on the lower left.

One of the many bucks getting some attention from schoolchildren. He is snickering at me.

A final view looking out from the Todaiji Temple. As you can see, the grounds are meticulously kept.

I am away in Japan through the rest of August! Posts will continue here, as usual.

Related posts: On French Maids and Boston Terriers, in Japan, A Trip to the Countryside, in Yufuin, Japan, and A Visit to the Tsujiki Fish Market, in Tokyo.

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A Brief Hello, from Japan

Photo by myself, in Tokyo, in Shibuya.

There are machines for canned and bottled drinks, and cigarettes everywhere in Japan.

Even on residential streets, you will come across a machine once in a while. Bottled water, sodas and iced coffee are available for around 100-150 yen, which is about $1.50-$2.00 US.

Tokyo is a very large city, broken up into various neighborhoods. The above photo was taken in Shibuya, where we stayed our first night. Shibuya is sort of like Times Square in that there are tons of people and giant billboards.

I've taken far fewer photos during our first days in Tokyo and Fukuoka for a couple reasons. One is that it is insanely hot. The other is that I was wearing the wrong footwear and was in a grumpy mood.

I don't recommend visiting Japan in August. The weather here is extremely humid. There are monsoon-like thunderstorms every afternoon.
     A young waitress sat outside a restaurant in the early morning. The wall is covered in graffiti-inspired stickers.


My fiance took this photo of some graffiti art.

For whatever reason, I've noticed a lot more graffiti on this trip. Stickers are everywhere, and some stickers are the product of graffiti artists in the US.

I'll be in Japan until the end of August. Photos will continue on this blog, in the meantime.

Related posts: Highlights from Japan, Part One, Highlights from Japan, Part Two, and Greetings, from Tokyo.

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Back to the City, in Tribeca

Photo by myself at Duane and Hudson Streets, in Tribeca.

A photo from an earlier visit to Tribeca, the land of renovated warehouses.

'Tribeca' stands for 'Triange below Canal (Street)'. Wikipedia writes that Tribeca is bound by Canal Street, West Street and Broadway/Chambers Street. I never know exactly where the neighborhood starts and stops.

The scale of the architecture makes this area very photogenic. A smattering of cobblestone streets help, too.

--
Well it's been 28 hours since waking up in Tokyo. Mark and I flew back to 96F degree weather in New York, which is cooler than it is in Japan. Crazy.

I did want to note that if you're considering traveling to Japan, it's really not too difficult to get around. A good guidebook and familiarity with cities will serve you well. In Tokyo, most street and subway signs are accompanied by an English translation.

Finding a specific address might be difficult, since buildings are not often numbered in order...but you will probably not be completely lost. Disoriented by the sheer number of people and signs and sights, yes. Miles away from where you need to be, no.

Finally, all the subways and high speed rail trains are timed to the minute, with constant updates. You'll only have to wait a little while before the next train arrives.


The Shinkansen or high speed rail trains in Japan are comfortable and wonderfully run. Each train has smoking cars, vending machines, toilets and food service. Some trains travel as fast as 300 km/hr or 185 mph.

Related posts: Duane Street, Tribeca, Reflecting on Tribeca and A Quiet Sunday in Tribeca.

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Highlights from Japan, Part Two

Photo by myself of an eatery in Asakusa, a historic district in Tokyo.

Mark and I traveled home today from Tokyo, Japan.

I must say that I didn't expect Japan to be so chaotic and yet so orderly. It was clean, brimming with people and energy but also relatively quiet. And of course, it was hot beyond belief. If you plan to visit, I would advise against going in July and August, since heat + humidity + walking around is tough on the body.

The lovely people and the country's incredible history made our trip absolutely precious. We will certainly be back soon.

Here are more highlights from our trip.

--

The Ameyoko markets in Ueno, Tokyo, where tiny stalls are tucked under the train tracks. Very Bladerunner-esque.


The stalls in Ameyoko sell everything from clothing to electronics to dried fish. One of the stalls was spraying a fine mist of cool water.


It was insanely hot and humid during our stay. One fellow in Ameyoko cooled off by eating watermelon.


A young woman chatting on the phone in Aoyama, an upscale area in Tokyo.


A gorgeous bird stalked fish for his lunch, in Fukuoka.


A favorite pastime in Japan is gambling. Parlors for Pachinko and slots are open every day.

Related posts: Greetings from Tokyo, Buenos Noches from Mexico and Sunset Views, Mexico.

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Highlights from Japan, Part One

Photo by myself in Shibuya, Tokyo.

Many eateries in this busy district are open to the street. The one above is a 'standing room only' sushi bar, where mostly young men in white shirts congregate after a long day of work.

--
It's hard to believe that our trip here in Japan is nearly over. Mark and I will be flying home starting Tuesday morning in Japan. Since we'll be crossing the date line, we'll be arriving in New York Tuesday morning, too.

The heat, the humidity, the crowds of people, the temples and shrines have made this an incredible trip. Japan is so photogenic! Finally, I thought New York was crowded, but Tokyo is the most crowded day in Herald Square to the 10th power.

Mark and I are very sad to leave. I'm posting some 'best of' photos from our trip. Part Two will follow tomorrow.


A gigantic wooden Buddha occupies a room in a Fukuoka temple.


A gorgeous temple in Fukuoka. The sweeping roof is typical of this building type.


A close up of the roof tiles, each ornamented in detail.


One of the busy streets in Akihabara, Tokyo. Vertical signs describe the various businesses on each floor.

Related posts: Greetings from Tokyo, Buenos Noches from Mexico and Sunset Views, Mexico.

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A Trip to the Countryside, in Yufuin, Japan

Photo by myself in Yufuin, a small town surrounded by hills, on the island of Kyushu, Japan.

Mark and I took a day trip to Yufuin, a small town a couple hours east of Fukuoka, Japan, where we've been staying. We traveled by rail through hilly terrain.

Yufuin is known for its many hot spring bath houses, called onsen, both public and private. Visitors can soak for long periods in baths of varying temperatures.

There are natural hot springs all over Japan, including urban areas like Tokyo. At public onsen, men and women occupy separate areas. Couples can spend time relaxing together at a private one. If you ever visit Japan, do visit an onsen. The hot water takes some getting used to, but you are relaxed for days afterwards.


Our private onsen in Yufuin had an outdoor and indoor bath. The spring water is naturally extremely hot, over 60 degrees Celcius (140 degrees Fahrenheit).

Most of Yufuin is taken up by farms, rice fields and a small town center lined with shops. The landscape is stunning, since the rice stalks are a brilliant shade of yellow-green, and the town is surrounded by hills.

Mark and I steeped together in a private onsen for an hour. It was incredibly relaxing. We then walked around the town and were overwhelmed by the natural beauty of the area.


A closer view of the rice stalks, which grow in very wet soil. Large areas of land are irrigated with canals.


One of the many picturesque stalls in the town, selling made-to-order snacks.


One of the stalls featured tiny fish that nibbled away the dead skin on your feet.


The town center in Yufuin is a short walk from the train station.

New York Portraits is on vacation in various parts of Japan. I'll be returning to NYC on August 31.

Related posts: Tropical Luxury at the Caribe Hilton, Puerto Rico, A Short Visit to Old San Juan, Puerto Rico and Sunset Views, Mexico.

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